Part 4 of “Basics of Fiber, Yarn, and Fabric”
Knit fabric is formed by interlooping yarns, giving natural stretch, softness, and excellent drape.
Understanding knit construction is essential for sourcing the right fabric or finished knitwear.
Types of Knitting
1. Machine-Knitting Methods
| Method | Key Points | Typical Applications |
|---|---|---|
| Weft Knitting | One yarn forms horizontal rows (courses). Loops intermesh sideways. | T-shirts, sweaters, hosiery |
| Warp Knitting | Multiple yarns form vertical columns (wales). Each needle has its own yarn. | Lingerie, swimwear, sportswear |
2. Machine Types
- Circular Knitting: Needles arranged in a cylinder create a seamless tube of fabric.
- Pros: High production speed, ideal for jersey.
- Uses: T-shirts, underwear, tubular garments.
- Flat Knitting: Needles in a straight/flat bed create fabric panels or shaped garments.
- Pros: Precise shaping, great for fully fashioned knitwear.
- Uses: Sweaters, cardigans, scarves.
Wales, Courses, and Machine Gauge
- Wales: Vertical columns of loops.
- Courses: Horizontal rows of loops.
- Machine Gauge (GG): Number of needles per inch.
- Low gauge (3–7 GG): Chunky, heavy knits (hand-knit look).
- Medium gauge (8–12 GG): Standard sweaters, fashion knits.
- High gauge (14–18+ GG): Fine-gauge T-shirts, lightweight sweaters.
The gauge determines fabric fineness, weight, and hand.
Cut-and-Sew vs. Fully Fashioned Knitwear
| Method | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|
| Cut-and-Sew Knit Fabric | Efficient mass production, easy pattern cutting, compatible with standard sewing | Potential seam bulk, more fabric waste |
| Fully Fashioned Knitwear | Garments knitted to shape with minimal cutting; smooth seams, less waste, premium feel | Slower production, higher cost, limited design change after knitting |
Key Knit Fabric Types
| Fabric | Structure & Features | Common Uses |
|---|---|---|
| Jersey | Single weft knit; smooth face, soft back | T-shirts, dresses |
| Rib Knit | Alternating knit/purl wales; excellent elasticity | Cuffs, collars, body-con garments |
| Interlock | Two intermeshed rib structures; stable, smooth | Polo shirts, babywear |
| Cable Knit | Decorative twisted stitches forming cable patterns | Sweaters, scarves |
| Jacquard Knit | Complex multi-color or textured patterns | Fashion tops, statement sweaters |
| Tricot (Warp Knit) | Fine, vertical wales with crosswise underlaps; smooth face | Lingerie, linings, activewear |
| Raschel (Warp Knit) | Open, lacy or mesh structures | Lace, sports mesh, decorative panels |
Sourcing Insights
- High-Volume Basics: Circular single-jersey for tees and underwear.
- Premium Sweaters: Flat-knit, fully fashioned styles minimize seams and improve fit.
- Technical Applications: Warp knits (tricot, raschel) offer stability and snag resistance for sports or lingerie.
ApparelX is a BtoB ecommerce platform for brands, tailors and the like to order from small MOQs from a variety of manufacturers in one order. And we ship worldwide!
Check out our FAQ page, Youtube, and LinkedIn if you have basic questions or looking to stay connected.
Let ApparelX support your production needs through our apparel OEM service!
If you are looking to bulk order, custom order, or have any other questions, contact us through our contact form and a member on the Global Strategy Team will get back to you within the next business day. (Please understand that we are based in Japan and our office hours are 9am-6pm so we are only able to answer during that time).