Knitting pattern markings and fabric terminology explained – Basics
Ribbed fabric is a common item ordered on ApparelX. However, some people are confused as to what notations like 2×1 and 30/1 mean, so today I would like to explain how to read knit fabric terminology.
What are ribs?
Ribbed fabric are the knitted parts attached as collars, cuffs, and hems.
(*Weft knitting is a method of knitting yarn using a special knitting machine called a flat knitting machine.)
The word “rib” means rib bone or rib cage in English, and it is said to have come from the fact that the uneven ridges of the weft-knitted fabric resemble ribs. (I guess? haha)
It has a horizontal stretch, so it adheres closely to the skin and prevents cold air from entering when used for the cuffs of outerwear. It also has the advantage of not slipping down even when the sleeves are rolled up, making the cuffs more durable and less likely to wrinkle or stretch out.
Knitting notation and terminology
Knit fabrics are indicated by the gauge number, yarn material and count, needle pull, and number of yarn strands used.
I’ll be going over each fabric terminology below.
Gauge Number
Gauge refers to the number of needles per inch (2.54 cm) and is a unit of measurement for expressing the thickness and density of knitted fabric.
The unit is written as “G”.
If the gauge number is small, the knitted fabric will be thick and frumpy, and if the gauge number is large, the knitted fabric will be thin and flat.
They are also called by the following names depending on the gauge number.
・5G or less → “Low gauge”
・7-10G → “Mid/standard gauge”
・12G or more → “High gauge”
Generally, up to 18G is permitted for weft knitting. Fabrics knitted at higher gauges are cut and shaped or made on circular knitting machines.
(※Circular knitting is a type of weft knitting, and refers to fabrics knitted on cylindrical circular knitting machines. Fabrics that have been knitted in a circular fashion and then cut and sewn are called cut and sewn, and the knitted fabric is also finished in a cylindrical shape.)
Thread material and count
Rib knits are made by knitting yarn on a flat knitting machine. Therefore, the texture of the rib will change depending on the type of yarn you choose.
<What is thread count?>
The thread count is a unit that indicates the length and thickness of the thread. The numbers are expressed as “number/number”, such as 2/48 or 30/1.
The numbers 1 and 2 indicate the number of twisted threads. They indicate whether it is a single thread (one thread) or a double thread (two threads twisted together).
Numbers such as 48, 30, etc. indicate the thread count. The higher the number, the thinner the thread.
There are also two types of counts: “wool number” and “cotton number,” and the way the numbers are written differs as follows:
Yarn number: The denominator is larger than the numerator (numerator < denominator). This is yarn (wool) made by worsted spinning.
Example: 2/48
Cotton number : The numerator is larger than the denominator (numerator > denominator). This is yarn (cotton) made from spun cotton.
Example: 30/1
<thread materials>
The main thread materials are as follows:
・Wool : This yarn is made from wool. The thread count commonly used for ribbing is 2/48.
・Acrylic wool (A/W) : This is a blend of acrylic and wool. The yarn often used for ribbing is 70% acrylic and 30% wool.
・Cotton : This yarn is 100% cotton. The thread counts commonly used for ribbing are 20/2, 30/1, 30/2, 40/1, 40/2, 60/2, etc.
・Tetoron cotton (T/C) : It is a blend of polyester and cotton. The yarn most commonly used for ribbing is 50% polyester and 50% cotton.
・Polyester : The thread is 100% polyester.
Removing the needle
Removing needles means whether you are using all the needles in the gauge or removing one needle at a time. By removing the needle, you can accentuate the unevenness of the ribs. This fabric terminology is pretty straight forward.
The number of needles removed is expressed as “number x number”, such as 2 x 1.
When it says 2×1, it means that one needle is removed for every two needles.
Also, in the case of sobari knitting, which uses all needles, it is written in kanji as “総針”. (as in T/C3本総針 in the below sample card)
As shown in the image above, with 2×1, the cut-out parts are recessed and the knitted fabric is raised, so the unevenness is more emphasized. With 3×2, the rib has an even deeper recess. With all-needle knitting, the ribs are tightly packed, so the unevenness is less noticeable.
Number of threads taken
The number of threads used refers to how many threads are used. The finished rib knit fabric depends not only on the gauge but also on the number of strands of yarn used, so please specify the desired number of strands of yarn used when ordering.
The number of threads used is expressed as “number + strands”, such as 2 strands.
When it says “3本,” it means that it is knitted using three strands.
As shown in the image above, the impression changes depending on whether you use 3 or 4 strands. The more strands there are, the thicker the ribs will be.
How was that? I hope you were able to learn something new from this article. We know that some terminology may not be universal and is specific to the Japanese knitting industry but I hope this helps explains things.
ApparelX is a BtoB ecommerce platform for brands, tailors and the like to order from small MOQs from a variety of manufacturers in one order. And we ship worldwide!
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