ROKAL, a Japanese fabric manufacturer based in Tokyo, Nishiwaki, and Kojima, that offers a diverse selection of approximately 100 original fabrics, specializing in military fabrics. Their collection includes yarn-dyed textiles from the Banshu production area, premium denim from the Bingo district, and a variety of military and workwear materials. Despite being a relatively new company, established in 2016, ROKAL has already made a strong impression. At the recent Premium Textile Japan exhibition, the company held numerous business meetings with potential clients.
ROKAL stands out for its focus on Nishiwaki and Kojima’s specialty fabrics, particularly military-inspired materials. The RM series, a highlight of their collection, features fabrics designed with military wear in mind. For enthusiasts, their range is especially compelling, with materials meticulously analyzed and recreated from vintage workwear threads. Given the enduring popularity of military wear as a staple material, I highly recommend this series for those seeking such designs.
Additionally, ROKAL collaborates with factories to provide an extensive array of fabrics, including quilts, prints, bonded materials, and coatings, catering to a wide variety of customer needs.
ROKAL military fabric on ApparelX
I’ll first introduce some military fabrics from the RM-series
RM-0001 C/N BDU RIPSTOP
This ripstop fabric draws inspiration from BDUs, the combat uniforms adopted by the entire U.S. military in 1981 and used by the Navy until their retirement in 2012.
Highly regarded by military enthusiasts, this fabric was meticulously developed by analyzing BLACK357—a rare variant produced for only one year in 1997—starting with the threads. Made from a durable blend of cotton and nylon, it embodies the strength and resilience characteristic of authentic military materials.
While many manufacturers have reproduced military fabrics, few offer the same level of precision in recreating specific items or time periods, making this fabric truly unique.
RM-0002 TROPICAL COMBAT RIPSTOP
This ripstop material, also inspired by BDUs, is crafted from 100% cotton and modeled after the mid-range Woodland fabrics used in 1984.
Available in two stock camouflage patterns—classic camo and tiger stripe—this fabric offers both authenticity and versatility, making it a standout choice for military-inspired designs.
RM-0011 MILITARY SERGE
This fabric pays homage to the M-47 cargo pants adopted by the French Army in 1947. Originally designed for cargo pants, it features a thick, highly durable construction that ensures long-lasting wear.
With its high quality and authentic design, this material is an excellent choice for those seeking military-grade fabric for pants.
RM-0012 USN HERRINGBONE
While military wear is often associated with functional fabrics like ripstop, herringbone was widely used in the U.S. during the 1940s.
This fabric is an excellent choice for those who appreciate a more classic, vintage aesthetic while retaining the durability and functionality synonymous with military wear.
Next, here are some post-processing fabrics and region related fabrics.
RK3001 QUILTING
This is a quilted polyester taffeta with a diamond pattern.
It is stocked in quilted condition and is available in a wide variety of colors, making it a very useful material.
RR6629 Yarn Dyed 60/2 Cotton/ Linen Weave Check
As noted earlier, ROKAL operates in the Nishiwaki and Banshu areas, renowned for their yarn-dyed fabric production.
One standout item is their yarn-dyed cotton-linen fabric, woven with a diagonal weave—a plain weave pattern created by aligning two or more warp and weft threads. Soft to the touch and highly breathable, this fabric is ideal for summer wear, combining comfort with style.
I hope this introduction to ROKAL was informative and helpful if you’re looking for military fabrics. You can check out their page on ApparelX here. Sample cards are available for purchase by clicking on the green button on each fabric’s product page.
Pair their fabrics with the WALDES vintage zippers for a cohesive military vintage look!
ApparelX is a BtoB ecommerce platform for brands, tailors and the like to order from small MOQs from a variety of manufacturers in one order. And we ship worldwide!
Check out our FAQ page, Youtube, and LinkedIn if you have basic questions or looking to stay connected.
If you are looking to bulk order, custom order, or have any other questions, contact us through our contact form and a member on the Global Strategy Team will get back to you within the next business day. (Please understand that we are based in Japan and our office hours are 9am-6pm so we are only able to answer during that time).
Leave a Reply