Sumi-dyeing : The charm of natural dyeing!

Do you know what “Sumizome” (Sumi dye) is?

Natural materials and dyes are becoming more and more expensive every year to meet with the increasing demands, but I would like to introduce the appeal of Sumi dyed fabric!

What is Sumizome?

Sumizome is dyeing with Soot. “Sumi”(su-mi) meaning soot, and “zome” (zoh-meh) meaning dye.

The more you use Sumi-dyed clothing/items, the more you can enjoy the changes that occur over time . Even if they start out deep black, the color will gradually soften and fade. The longer you use them, the more they will develop a deeper character and a unique, personal touch.

With increasing demand from consumers on sustainability, one of the great things about soot dyeing is that it uses natural materials, so it has less of an environmental impact than chemical dyes.

Sumi 【墨】

• Uses : Used in calligraphy, painting, and dyeing. Especially used for drawing letters and pictures.
• Manufacturing method : Soot is collected from burning wood such as pine and vegetable oil, and mixed with glue and other adhesives to harden it. This is dissolved in water and used.
• Characteristics : Ink has good black color and the shade can be adjusted freely, so it is used to add depth to works of art and letters.

Charcoal 【炭】

• Use : This refers to something that is primarily used as fuel, for the purpose of generating heat, such as for barbecues or heating.
• Manufacturing method : It is made by incomplete combustion of wood or bamboo and carbonizing it. By blocking out oxygen as much as possible and applying heat, a solid material consisting mainly of carbon remains.
• Characteristics : Charcoal is light and burns for a long time when lit. It produces a high amount of heat during combustion, making it an excellent heat source.

Sumi is processed for art and dyeing purposes and is used to express the color black.
Charcoal is used as fuel, mainly to generate heat.
Although the ingredients of each are similar, the differences in their uses and manufacturing methods are the main characteristics.

Fabrics

I will introduce some Sumi-dyed fabrics available on ApparelX! I have selected fabrics from Oharayaseni and Koyama, who specialize in natural fibers.

OWD25193 – 40/1 JAPAN LINEN Sumi-dyed

Oharayaseni Fabric, “We use sumi ink as the dye and use a dyeing process to create a tasteful uneven texture in the textile.
Since the textile is finished without applying any unnecessary force, it has a random wrinkled texture and a dry feel.
This material allows you to fully enjoy the flavor of ink, a traditional Japanese dye.”

OWD25197 – 40/1 JAPAN LINEN HERRINGBONE Sumi-dyed

Oharayaseni Fabric, “We use ink as the dye to create a tasteful uneven texture in the textile.
Since the textile is finished without applying any unnecessary force, it has a random wrinkled texture and a dry feel.
This material allows you to fully enjoy the flavor of ink, a traditional Japanese dye.”

HK1000BW – Nighttime Indian Madras, Ink Coating, One Wash

This traditional yarn dyed is made in Madras (now Chennai) in southeastern India, and is coated on both sides with ink and then washed.
Enjoy the unique touch and faded look that develops with use.

Personally, I think of Madras check as a pattern and colour scheme that a lively, energetic girl would wear, but by layering the ink black, the impression changes considerably, giving it a more subdued feel.

Some people may think that it’s a waste to use such colorful, vibrant fabric, but I think that because the pattern is vibrant, you are able to enjoy the patterns that stand out even after sumi dyeing and the changes that occur over time.

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